Eid

The nicest part of being back in the village for Eid was time spent in ada mara (hanging out, chatting) on the machar (bamboo bench or platform) near the house gate.  It is a wonderful spot for a machar, in the shade of a rain tree, and beside their large pond.  Below is the view looking South towards the feilds beyond the village, over the water lillies that Shuvo recently planted.

Eid

Shuvo and his family had 1/4 share in this bull

I was with my former host family outside Bogra for Eid.  I was happy to join the group sitting a bit away from where the animals were killed, but then for the first time helped cut up meat.  (The job doesn't require a whole lot of skill: it's a matter of slicing away until everything is in fist-size or smaller hunks.)  After everything is cut up, the 1/3 portion for the poor was hauled over the school, where it joined the growing stack on the porch.

I also provided (much more skilled) calculator services when it came time to figuring out the meat allotments.  With 450 kg meat and about 932 Muslim residents of Nondokul, it worked out to just under 1/2 kg per person.  But the total population included those who had bought animals (and are not poor), so in the end they decided a rounded 1/2 kg would work, and no further calculations were needed.  The per person accounting was new for Nondokul; it used to be divvied up per household.  From what I understand this traditional communally organized system is dying out, many villages now do as in the cities, where every one gives as they please to beggars who show up at their door.  So an efficient 1-hour process in replaced by a day-long house-to-house trek for the poor.

Checking off names as family units collect their bagful

travelling during Eid

I left Mymensingh by train a couple days before Eid.  I was surprised to find that I had no trouble getting a ticket, but when I saw the trains, I realized most people probably had not bothered about a ticket.  This was actually the train before mine, but mine was exactly the same state of fullness.

I was bracing myself for a roof-top ride, but I actually was able to enter the compartment, and amazingly got to sit in my ticketed seat!

Durga Puja

 This year three national holidays landed side by side, and made for a nice long vacation.  I just got back, but was in Mymensingh to see Durga puja here before I left.  I thought this was a big show in Bogra, but that was nothing compared to Mymensingh.  Mymensingh has a large Hindu population (perhaps 25%) and the locals say pujas are bigger here than anywhere else in the country.  The whole town was lit up and the cloth and bamboo or styrafoam facades were everywhere.

These were from Golpukurpar, the normally drab and grey street where I buy steel stock.  For a couple nights the hammering and cutting noises were drowned out by blaring Bengali and Hindi pop music from the various mondops where Durga and her associated images were set up.  Outside the temples, it's a big party, with snack foods and loud loud music.  

orchids

I've always wanted to grow orchids outside, and here in Mymensingh I finally have both the right climate and the right place.  Our MCC office has many trees that are well suited for orchids -- especially one enormous koroi (raintree).  Below is the first flower -- a surprise, as they usually just bloom in the Spring.  I think this is one from Brother Guilliome, which he collected from Sylhet perhaps?

An endangered species: the Bangladeshi mountain

Here's another picture from the bike trip I forgot to post earlier.  Other hills along the northern border may soon suffer the fate of this one, at least those that had the ill fate of falling on the Bangladesh side of the line.

The pile of raw red earth is what is left of the hill (or 'mountain'; anything higher than a person is a pahar in Bangladesh).  It is slowly being mined for aggregate: any gravel is sifted out and hauled off, and the dirt is left to wash away.  Another village further along had a lovely grass-covered hill that I stopped to nap on.  Before I left one of the villagers told me with pride about how all the residents had registered their names with the local government for their mountain.  So when it is 'cut down' they will all get their share of the profit, and presumably the remaining flat land.

Cherrapunji

What a beautiful place!  Riding down the ridge to Sohra and on to the guest house was one of the nicest rides I've ever done.  And the first evening it was clear enough to look down on the Bangladesh plains and see the hills, haors and towns I'd just biked through.  But Meghalaya is such a contrast to Bangladesh, with its mountains, jungle, cool air, and few people.

Mymensingh is probably the most rainy place I've ever lived, with an annual rainfall of about 2.5 m, almost twice that of Bogra, less than 100 km away.  Moving another 100 km East into Sylhet, where I crossed the border, this annual rainfall doubles again to over 5.5 m.  In Cherrapunji, the average annual rainfall is an incredible 12 m ...with a record setting 24 m back 40 years ago.  And most of this rain falls during the three months of monsoon.

Apart from seeing the monsoon in the wettest place on earth, the other attraction at Cherrapunji is the root bridges, formed by the local Khasi people by guiding ficus tree roots across the river from trees on either side.   An amazingly durable solution for a place where nothing seems to last long with the torrential rains.

I've never seen as spectacular a display of butterflies as in the jungle slopes there.  This was one that stayed still for long enough for me to take his picture.

Getting to this waterfall lookout spot was quite a hike: 3 km horizontally and 1 km vertically (from 300 m to 1300 m).  Coming at the end of a day of hiking around the root bridges, I was pretty worn out by the time I reached the top.  And my legs are still aching from the climb.

I had one day with only morning rain, perfect for looking around.  Then the rains started -- and it kept raining continuously for the rest of my time in Meghalaya.  So that was the end of my pictures.  I also took a shortcut on the way back, catching an overnight bus to Tura in the West, and riding down from there -- making it back to Mymensingh in one day.

I wish I had pictures of some of the Khasi people I met.  I don't know if I've ever known a people for whom generosity comes so easily.  The fellow I sat next to on the roof of the jeep going up the hills spent hours helping me look for a ride on to Shillong, for a place to keep my bike, for a place to stay -- and wouldn't leave till I was finally settled in a hotel.  The next day, on the ride down to Cherrapunji, an older man and his son were doing the same road on their motorbike.  We passed each other a couple times, and then stopped at the same tea shop and talked some as I ate rice and they had their tea.  When I was leaving, I couldn't figure out why the shopkeeper wouldn't take my money; when I eventually understood the man had paid for my meal and tea, they were already leaving, and I just managed to catch them in time to say thanks.  The next day, I stopped at the same shop, but it was closed for Sunday and the shopkeeper was obviously just on her way out to church.  But she realized what I had come for and insisted on opening the shop and making me tea -- and again wouldn't take any money.

bike trip

With several days of holiday around Eid, I decided to take the chance to head up north into India, to Cherrapunji, the wettest place on earth, and a place I've long wanted to visit.  I've also been eager for a chance to explore the northern border by bicycle, so as I got to planning the trip it quickly turned into a bicycle trip with a short break in Cherrapunji: 6 days on the road and 2 at the Rayen family's Cherra Holiday Resort.

The dark green on the map above closely follows Meghalaya's borders, with Bangladesh on the South and Assam on the North.  I started off going East along the small roads paralleling the border.  It is remarkably beautiful country, with some unique terrain.

After a night in Birisiri, I rode into Shunamganj, but soon had to load the bike into a boat to get across the Tanguar Haor.  Although it is right next to the mountains on the northern border, much of Sunamganj is less than 10 m above sea level, and has several haors, enormous areas that stay flooded even during the dry season.

The rivers that come rushing down the Meghalaya hills spread out and deposit their stones and sand in vast riverbeds...  The rivers were all hubs of activity, full of people sifting out various grades of gravel to truck down South as construction aggregate.  They were also a challenge for the bike: both finding where the boatman happened to be, and then pushing the bike through the endless loose sand flats.

Despite this being towards the end of the monsoon, most of the roads were rideable and many in good shape.  And aside from the stone extraction sites, there is hardly any motorized vehicle traffic on the small back roads.  Lots of scenery like below.  I think Bangladesh's green rice fields are even more beautiful with mountains in the background

I met many friendly and generous people along the way: a small-time coal businessman in Tekkerhat, a retired 7th Day Adventist pastor, Garo students, and the fellow below, whose uncle Jalal took me in when I failed to make it to Jafflong by evening.

forest fruits

A week ago, I visited the homes of a couple of MCC staff in Pirgacha, in the middle of the Modhupur forest.  It is a beautiful, peaceful place -- and my visit was well timed for the pineapple season.  I don't think I've ever eaten so much or such good pineapple.  It is the main crop of the area, and the naturally ripened fruit they pick for themselves is so much better than what you get in the bazaar.

But pineapple wasn't the only fruit around.  During a short walk in the jungle, I got to taste four fruits that I had never even seen before.  I'm regularly amazed by the variety of fruit around here.  After living in this part of the world for most of my life -- and making a point of trying every fruit I come across -- I am still discovering new ones.  Below is Shuvro with meur guta (Bengali) or ti-kring (Mandi).  It is something like lotkon ...nothing like any Western fruit I can think of.

Modhupur is also one of the few places in Bangladesh where you can get a view like the one below.  It used to all be native Sal forest, but now not much of that remains.  Before local people cleared the forest for farming, and after the not-yet-cleared forest became government land, the government forest department continued the clear cutting.  Huge swaths have been cleared and replanted with timber trees plantations.  

Istanbul

Now that Turkish Airlines flys to Dhaka, a stop in Istanbul was an easy add-on to the trip.  And what a city!  I had about 5 days, and could have spent many more.  Here are a few highlights:

Of course, one of the first stops was the Hagia Sophia, and it is every bit as impressive as it is made out to be.  Incredible that such an enormous, beautiful, well-lit space was made with stone, and has survived centuries of earthquakes.  The mosaics were also a highlight.

Below, the Basilica Cistern, and enormous underground water reservoir that was forgotten for centuries.

Below, a carving of Alexander's battles on a sarcophagus at the Archeology museum.

...and a little more restful day at the Princes Islands, an hour ferry ride from the city.

Mass in Constantinople

While in Constantinople, I wanted to find a church that was actually functioning as a church -- not a museum or mosque.  But finding an operating church proved to be rather difficult in this city that was once the center of Christendom.  Every one I searched out was either marked wrong on the map, or in ruins, or tightly shut up without anyone to open.  Finally I found the Orthodox Patriarchate, and a monk -- who happened to be leaving as I arrived -- let me know that it would be open for mass in the morning.  Below is a back view of the rather unassuming church building; the front was barely visible from the road.

I arrived the next morning right on time at 9 a.m., and was glad to finally get in the door.  (This was my last day in the city.)  At first I was a little annoyed that they wouldn't let me into the main sanctuary, but directed me to a side alcove.  But after a while as more people arrived, it became obvious that this wasn't just a normal mass, and the two fathers with clipboards were ushering people to their seats based on their seating plans.  Then finally, close to 10, there was a big commotion, and the patriarch himself entered with his entourage holding up his robes.  I discovered later that this was the Feast of the Apostle Bartholomew, the patriarch's namesake, and there was a very dignified set of ambassadors, archbishops, and clergy in attendance.  Below is his All-Holiness the Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew of Constantinople, presiding over the liturgy.

The official photographer got much better pictures than I -- some are on the patriarchate website.  I was initially hesitant to take out my phone for these shots, but it was soon clear that everyone else was busy with their cameras.  I even saw a young nun in the front row whip out her camera to snap a couple of the patriarch, before stowing it again in her robes, crossing herself, and returning to her prayers.

A view from the balcony at the back, and below a video that has some of the chants.  I wish I had a better recording, the music was beautiful.

It was quite a show.  Perhaps small in comparison to what it would have been at the height of Constantinople, but still impressive, with all the gold and chandeliers, glittering relic cases, incense and ceremony.  It made the Reformers' situation a little more real me.

Duluth

While up in Duluth last week, I got out hiking with my uncle & aunt a couple time.  With the lake effect, Duluth is about a month behind Minneapolis, and the Spring flowers are still in full bloom.

Bellwort was everywhere in Jay Cook park, and the blueberry flowers below were at Shovel Point -- Tettegouche park.  I wish I could be back in July for the berries.

We saw quite a few songbirds on the hike, and a hermit thrush that stole the show.  My coarse recording doesn't do justice to its beautiful call.  

It was in the 50s most of the time by the lake, and I only got warm when hiking up to the high falls in Tettegouche.  And a dip in the Baptism river quickly changed that.

And here we're back at home again, where Pat was taking pictures of butterflies and other insects.

Garden of the Gods

After finishing a week-long solar course here in Colorado, I've had the weekend with my old room-mate Andy & his wife in Colorado Springs.  We were at the Garden of the Gods park on Saturday, and what spectacular scenery!  The red sandstone spines were also perfect climbing rocks.

 

The picture above is from deep inside the formation second from left below.

The area has its own set of spring flowers in bloom -- most showy is the yucca, which is scattered accross the grassland, and has just come into bloom.

 

a walk in the wood

This morning we hiked the ridge above Harrisonburg, and the mountain laurel were spectacular. 

We also saw 16 lady's slippers...

…and azaleas

 

 

Jordgubbstarta

Coming back to the US in the early Spring, I thought I'd miss all the berries.  So it was a pleasant surprise to find out that strawberries were just ripening here in Virginia.  After a morning out at the pick-your-own farm, I made an attempt at the Swedish strawberry cream cake.  The cream decorating was a little sloppy, but it tasted good.  

 

little monkey

At the park yesterday, Maia showed herself to be a natural climber.  She scaled the kiddie climbing wall  in nice form with no coaching and no help.  Not bad for 2 1/2 years old. 

 

 

(I've had just a couple days in Harrisonburg with Jacob & the Tobin clan -- so nice to be back here again.)

Daffodils

We were at John & Grace for dinner yesterday, and John made Hanna's day by letting her cut a handful of his daffodils.  It is so nice to be back in Minnesota for Spring.