Istanbul

Now that Turkish Airlines flys to Dhaka, a stop in Istanbul was an easy add-on to the trip.  And what a city!  I had about 5 days, and could have spent many more.  Here are a few highlights:

Of course, one of the first stops was the Hagia Sophia, and it is every bit as impressive as it is made out to be.  Incredible that such an enormous, beautiful, well-lit space was made with stone, and has survived centuries of earthquakes.  The mosaics were also a highlight.

Below, the Basilica Cistern, and enormous underground water reservoir that was forgotten for centuries.

Below, a carving of Alexander's battles on a sarcophagus at the Archeology museum.

...and a little more restful day at the Princes Islands, an hour ferry ride from the city.

Mass in Constantinople

While in Constantinople, I wanted to find a church that was actually functioning as a church -- not a museum or mosque.  But finding an operating church proved to be rather difficult in this city that was once the center of Christendom.  Every one I searched out was either marked wrong on the map, or in ruins, or tightly shut up without anyone to open.  Finally I found the Orthodox Patriarchate, and a monk -- who happened to be leaving as I arrived -- let me know that it would be open for mass in the morning.  Below is a back view of the rather unassuming church building; the front was barely visible from the road.

I arrived the next morning right on time at 9 a.m., and was glad to finally get in the door.  (This was my last day in the city.)  At first I was a little annoyed that they wouldn't let me into the main sanctuary, but directed me to a side alcove.  But after a while as more people arrived, it became obvious that this wasn't just a normal mass, and the two fathers with clipboards were ushering people to their seats based on their seating plans.  Then finally, close to 10, there was a big commotion, and the patriarch himself entered with his entourage holding up his robes.  I discovered later that this was the Feast of the Apostle Bartholomew, the patriarch's namesake, and there was a very dignified set of ambassadors, archbishops, and clergy in attendance.  Below is his All-Holiness the Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew of Constantinople, presiding over the liturgy.

The official photographer got much better pictures than I -- some are on the patriarchate website.  I was initially hesitant to take out my phone for these shots, but it was soon clear that everyone else was busy with their cameras.  I even saw a young nun in the front row whip out her camera to snap a couple of the patriarch, before stowing it again in her robes, crossing herself, and returning to her prayers.

A view from the balcony at the back, and below a video that has some of the chants.  I wish I had a better recording, the music was beautiful.

It was quite a show.  Perhaps small in comparison to what it would have been at the height of Constantinople, but still impressive, with all the gold and chandeliers, glittering relic cases, incense and ceremony.  It made the Reformers' situation a little more real me.